Day 3: A Different Side of Manila
Posted by Brandon Lagao | Posted in The Prodigal Lumpia | Posted on 5/05/2009 10:14:00 PM
(10am):I woke up at a more decent hour this morning: 7am. It was still pretty wet outside, but the city is just as busy as ever. I wonder where all these people are going so early in the day? I would assume to their jobs, but wouldn't their day already be started by 10am? It's also really crazy how many people are fully dressed and headed to the mall this early. My uncle let me know that Makati is basically the Beverly Hills of PI, so that probably has something to do with it. I'm eating breakfast while writing the first part of this entry. I'm at this place called "Heaven & Eggs". It's a pretty "hip" joint for breakfast. Everything is "rockstar" themed and they have a J.Lo concert playing on the TV and its connected to the speakers and playing as loud as if we are all at the concert. In the US they might do something like this for dinner or at a bar, but not for breakfast! Breakfast places back home are pretty stuffy and I literally get headaches when I eat at them...i've been that way ever since I was a little kid...seriously, just ask my mom. Anyways, so yeah, the malls are super busy, super early. At 9:45am a line actually starts forming outside of all the multiple entrances. My plans today are to visit the touristy areas to learn about the history of the Philippines: Intramuros, Rizal Park, Ermita, Malate, etc... I'm also hoping to catch a famous Manila Bay Sunset during dinner. But first I need to see if I can get a flight and a room in Boracay. Talk about last minute. We'll see what happens, but I might be staying an extra night in Manila.
(6pm-ish): Well, I got a one way ticket to Boracay today but still waiting on figuring out a place to stay. As I write this I am sitting in the Philippines most popular restaurant, "The Aristocrat". I'm pretty sure I just ordered two things that are family style...oops! Oh nevermind, they weren't that big. That is actually something else that surprises me about the PI, the servings are much smaller here then at the filipino restaurants back home. Although I haven't been to any "turo turo" places here yet. Turo-Turo is translated to point-point in English, because literally you point at which dishes you want.
So I decided to stop at Rizal Park first. As I was in my taxi I knew this day was going to be a bit different of an experience. I saw a different side of Manila today. I expected it, but I guess my time in Makati has sheltered me a little. The scene got dirtier, traffic got worse, and the smiles we're less and less seen. Rizal Park was pretty cool, or at least the idea of it was. It reminded me a lot of Balboa Park, just a lot more impoverished. It's basically a huge park dedicated to the country's national hero, Dr. Jose Rizal, as well as what seems like every other historical figure dating back to the Philippines indigenous days. From what I learned, Dr. Rizal was a writer, political figure, philanthropist, and world traveler, among other things. And he was executed for standing up to the Spaniards near the end of 1800's. One of the sites I got to see was the actual site of Rizal's execution. At the entrance there is a big, black granite wall that was inscribed with his "Last Farewell". I actually found myself getting a little emotional as I read his passionate words.
From Rizal Park, I decided to walk. I knew I was going in the right direction, but I just didn't know where to. Roxas Blvd is probably one of the busiest streets in the world, and certainly the busiest I have ever been on, and here I was, half filipino, half white Brandon, chilling among the locals, walking the full distance of Manila Bay, and crossing the busy street as if I had done it my whole life. I've come a very long way from when my mother wouldn't let me cross the street of my old neighborhood, from when I was a child. On my walk, a few guys asked me if I wanted a ride in their horse carriage or Kalesa and I decided to pass. A taxi driver asked me, "why the hell are you walking?" and all I could say was, "I don't know, I want to see stuff I guess." Then he offered to take me to some girls and I politely let him know I was all good.
Manila Bay smells pretty bad and it was too cloudy to see much of a sunset. Today was the only day that I can honestly say I didn't feel safe. There are a lot of little wild kittens running around looking malnourished. And there were a few different occasions when I saw skinny little babies, no more than 2 years old, laying in the dirt with no parents in sight. One child was even eating some old gum off the floor. It was a difficult side of the city to see but a necessary one if I wanted to get the full experience of this place.
After dinner, I walked some more in hopes of flagging down a taxi. The biggest problem was that it was getting dark and I admit I was afraid to be by myself in that part of town at night. I finally found a taxi after it was fully night time and I asked him how his day was going and he answered, "Bullshit." I laughed, he didn't, not another word was said.
The driving in general here is Wow. There is really no other way to explain it. It is just more of an experience. Imagine a 3 lane street and trying to fit 4 taxis, a bus, and a jeepney in stop-and-go traffic. I'm talking full speed for no reason, and then last minute brakes. I just don't know how they avoid getting into 10 or 20 accidents a day. And surprisingly, I saw none. Just a lot of close calls. My knuckles were as white as the rice I ate at dinner during that ride home. I also should mention that not only are there taxis, buses, and jeepneys all fighting for position amidst the traffic, but people on motorcycles, bicycles, and on foot are all trying to cross the street at the same time! That's just insane, its like trying to cross the 5 freeway! To try and avoid traffic, my driver took me down some side streets that most tourists don't see. I saw a guy bathing himself on the side of the road, surrounded by the whole community. I saw a police officer peeing in between a couple of vans(public urination is normal here. maybe that's why I would rather pee outside than in a toilet?). We almost hit 3 children and a few teens. Needless to say, I was so glad to make it back to my safe hotel in one piece...my heart was beating out of my chest, but in one piece nonetheless.
What a day. And once again, I can look back on it and be thankful for the experience and the growth that came with. Boracay here I come!
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